See the section for Hungary of
the Trento Bike Pages
Vienna - Budapest - Lake Balaton - Vienna
Contributed by Franco e Paola Comai ( Amici
della Bicicletta) - Via Solteri,35 38100 Trento (Italy).
Translated by Andreas Caranti. See the original Versione Italiana.
During transfer across three different operating systems, the
Hungarian place names have been horribly corrupted. Sorry. We hope to
be able to fix them sooner or later.
Guidebook published by Esterbauer und Weinfurter "Radwanderfaehrer
Donauradweg - Teil 3: Wien - Budapest" with maps 1 : 100000, covers
Vienna to Budapest. To be bought in Austria at bookstores, Tourist
Offices or Bike Shops. Contains maps with marked main path and hints
at alternatives, short sightseeing guide, tourist information. It's in
German, though. Cost in 1993 was 19.80 DM.
1 : 500000 Hallwag map for the Hungarian part after Budapest. Place
names are given in Hungarian, so you can recognize them once you're
"Vedere Budapest e l'Ungheria" in the series "Le guide del gabbiano",
edizioni Primavera, in Italian (Lit 16.500 in 1993).
"Ungherese per chi viaggia": Berlitz dictionary.
(Lit 9500 in 1993).
Franco e Paola Comai - Via Solteri,35 - 38100 Trento A.d.B.
How to get there
We drove to Vienna, traveling by train being at the very least
About 1000 km
The Austrian part of the tour runs along a cycling path proper. In the
Czech Republic and in Hungary cyclists are clearly less considered and
pampered for. The aforementioned guide mentions alternatives to the
path from Vienna to Budapest, which is qalwsys very crowded. Be
prepared for some rough off-road riding, though!
After Budapest there is often no choice by riding on main roads, along
heavy traffic. The path is sometimes hilly, so you'd better have
When to travel
Let spring or early autumn. We did in August. No rain, temperatures
around 30-35C. We survived, but have plenty of water always at hand!
As to accommodation, we stayed at small Hotels (Gasthaus, Panzio) or
at bed and breakfasts (Zimmer), easily available in Austria and
Hungary. We payed on average 250 Schillings per person in Austria
(including breakfast), and 1300 Fnt in Hungary.
Breakfast being lavish in both countries, we normally had only yogurt,
fruit and sweets during the day.
Dinner was available for about 130 Schilling or 400 Fnt. Prices in
Vienna and Budapest are higher.
We left after breakfast, toward 9:00, and started looking for
accommodation at about 16:00.
As to the language, we made do with a bit of German.
Distances shown include diversions and riding around in towns. The
only technical problem we had was a puncture.
First stage: from Vienna (160 m a.s.l.) to Hainburg (170 m.
a.s.l.): 75 km
We cross Vienna along the danube, through beautiful parks. We pass
Orth an der Donau and get to Hainburg. Have a look at the nice spa
Bad Deutsch Altenburg, which offers convenient accommodation.
Second stage: from Hainburg (170 m. a.s.l.) to Dunakiliti (125 m
a.s.l.) : about 55 km
After a few kms, we enter the Czech republic, and get to Bratislava.
we followed what Guide 1 calls "Hauptroute" (there are two possible
alternatives). This is a badly kept gravel road; we switched to the
nearby paved road. After Cunovo we crossed into Hungary. Border checks
are quick and trouble free. Quite a bit of traffic, though. Along
secondary roads, we got to Dunakiliti.
Third stage: from Dunakiliti (125 m a.s.l.) to Gyo"r (118
m. a.s.l.) : about 58 km
According to Guidebook 1, we proceed on good roads to Lipo't. After
trying unsuccessfully a diversion through a rather dull landscape, we
get back to the main itinerary until Gyo"r. Near Mosonmagyarov r
we meet the first (cicogna?), in a nested over a power pole.
Fourth stage: from Györ (118 m. a.s.l.) to Tata (121 m
a.s.l.) : about 73 km
In B bolna, at mid stage, stop at the Cafe on hign street, with its
typical atmosphere. In Tata the "Arnold Pension" is to be recommended.
Don't miss a romantic walk anong the lake.
- height difference: basically nil, with some ups and downs
toward the end
Fifth stage: from Tata (121 m a.s.l.) to Esztergom ( 160 m
a.s.l.) : about 61 km
Very varied and interesting stage. More physical effort is needed
here, over somewhat steep hills. We cross beautiful vineyards, with a
nice view on the Danube. Before Esztergom, we pass near an
archeological site, with a middle age cemetery.
- height difference: about 200 m on the hills of
Dunaszentmiko'ls, 170 m more on the hills between Saetto" and the
Sixth stage: from Esztergom ( 160 m a.s.l.) to Szentendre -
Budapest ( 115 m a.s.l.) : about 52 km
This is really challenging, but also very rewarding. In case you don't
feel like climbing that much, just follow the course of the Danube.
- height difference: about 700 m circa, of which 550
Dobogo'-ko" ( 699 m a.s.l.) and 150 in crossing the
Pilisreservat Natural Reserve.
From Esztergom we follow the itinerary recommended by Guidebook 1 as
"Visegrader Berge alternative". The road goes through the wood, and
climbs seriously for several kms. We reach Dobog\242-k\224: beautiful
view on the underlying woods and on the Danube.
Be careful when coasting to Szentendre, to take the road to
Pilisreservat at a rather unnoticeable junction, near a military
As we said, your physical efforts will be rewarded here by the great
We chose Szentendre as our home base to visit Budapest, to avoid the
high prices and the chaos of the big city. A convenient underground
service makes traveling to Budapest very easy. Of course, Budapest
well deserves at least a couple of days.
From now on we used Map 2, which does not have height information, so
we cannot provide exact data.
Seventh stage: from Szentendre - Budapest ( 115 m a.s.l.) to
E'rd : about 82 km.
We followed the cycling path from Szentendre to the city centre,
crossing Margit Island, nearly completely car-free. Getting out of
Budapest on Bela Barto'k utca and Budao"rsi utca is rather
painful, because of the intense traffic, the miserable road-bed and
the thick web of rails on the road.
- height difference: some ups and downs.
We now find signs toward Lake Balaton for cyclists. This is
surprising, as the road is as trafficked as it could be, but perhaps
there are no alternatives. Crossing peach orchards, we pass
T\224r\224kb\240lint and got to E'rd.
We tried a diversion to S\242sk\243t and Pusztaz\240mor on what the
map pretended to be a secondary road, between glorious fields, but we
ended up nowhere. We got back to E'rd, where we lodged at E'rd Panzio.
Eighth stage: from E'rd to Veszprem: about 99 km
No signs for cyclists, so we get on the National Road 70. This is
interdicted to bicycles, but the Police appears to be accommodating.
There's a lot of traffic, as we cross the northern shore of lake
Velence. Too late do we discover the existence of a cycling path (not
shown on the map) on the southern shore! Some brief parts of a proper
cycling path take us away from the main road. We cross P\240kozd and
Sz\202kesfeh\202rv\240r, and continue on National Road 8 to
V\202szprem. Still a lot of traffic.
- height difference: some ups and downs
After V\240rpalota, we recommend to take a diversion to \231skae and
Hajm\240sk\202r,, nice country villages with hardly any traffic.
Ninth stage: from Veszprem to Ko"vesk l: about 71 km
From V\202szprem there are several options to get to lake Balaton.
Better take the less trafficked ones. Follow briefly Road 73, then the
signs to Fels\224\224rs. A pleasant descent leads to the shores of the
lake near Als\242\224rs. Now take Road 71 (still a lot of traffic)
until the Tihany peninsula. Ascend to the old village with its straw
roofs. Resume riding on Road 71 to zanka, where you may take a
peaceful diversion in the interior until K\224vesk\240l, on top of a
- height difference: some manageable ups and downs
Tenth stage: from Ko"vesk l to Ko"rmend: about 114 km
Still in a hilly landscappe until Tapolca. To get to Saemeg, avoid the
main road, and go through the woods to Zalahal\240p. Once in Saemeg,
one gets to Vasvar on not-so-easy-to-find roads through Ukk,
Gog nfa, Taerje, Batyk, Zalaber, Berbaltav r, Csehj,
Oszko'. There is some effort to be spent on the hills, especially
toward the end. There is no accommodation in Vasvar, so that we have
to go till K\224rmend, where we eat well and sleep better at Hala
- height difference: the ups and downs get a bit serious toward
Eleventh stage: from Ko"rmend to Ko"szeg: about57 km
From K\224rmend we ride through the countryside until J\240k (visit
the Romanic Basilica). We proceed through hills to N\240raj, and reach
Szombatheli. We follow Road 87, flat and with reasonably low traffic,
and reach K\224szeg.
- height difference: very modest
Twelfth night, I mean, stage: from Ko"szeg to Sopron: about 63 km
From K\224szeg we proceed through the countryside to L\224v\344, and
then to Sopron along Road 84. Accommodation has been difficult to
find, until we found a bed and breakfast. The town well deserves a
Thirteenth stage: from Sopron to Go"tzendorf an der Leitha:
about 55 km
From Sopron we start in the direction of Neusiedlersee, on a secondary
road to Fert\344r\240kos; here we take the cycling path to M\224rbisch
am See, after a pedestrian-and-cyclists only border checkpoint. We're
back in Austria, and to proper, well signposted cycling paths. Through
vineyards and hills with views on the lake, we get to the nice village
of Rust. We proceed to Donnerskirchen, and then work up a 200m height
difference on 5km to Mannersdorf am Leithagebirge (no accommodation to
be found), and then to Go"tzendorf an der Leitha, where we only find
accommodation at Paus Gasthof.
- height difference: the ups and downs get serious toward the end
Fourteenth stage: from Go"tzendorf an der Leitha to Vienna:
This is the last stage, that leads us back to Vienna, passing through
Reisenberg, Fischamend and Schwechat. In Vienna we spent some days
sightseeing. We chose accommodation outside town, in a Hut
(Windischhaette) at 500m a.s.l. in the Wienerwald, not far away from
Klosterneuburg. Riding through the woods here is really great.
Accommodation is very basic, but the surroundings are beautiful.